Hokuriku Sankyo Seiko Co., Ltd.

On May 15, 2024, an article about Hokuriku Sankyo Seiko Co., Ltd. was published in Senken Shimbun newspaper.

The sewing factory of Hokuriku Sankyo Seiko (located in Katsuyama City, Fukui Prefecture), part of the Sankyo Seiko Group, has inherited and maintained the sewing techniques that maximize the prints of the French ladies’ brand “LEONARD” often hailed as the “most beautiful in the world.”

A Quiet Sewing Factory:

Previously focusing on casual brands like cut-and-sew, they now specialize in LEONARD’s Japanese planning called “LEONARD Fashion” since joining the Sankyo Seiko Group. They produce almost a full range of items, including flagship products like dresses, bottoms, and coats. Prices typically range from around 200,000 yen for dresses, 100,000 yen for blouses, to 400,000 yen for down coats. “Quality over quantity. Since we take our time to craft each piece, the sound of sewing machines isn’t as prominent. We’re often called a quiet sewing factory,” says Factory Manager Yasukawa.

The most crucial sewing techniques unique to LEONARD are those needed for the neckline, cuffs, and hems, where the signature “border” print fabric is used. While designers prefer using borders to capture LEONARD’s essence, Yasukawa requests restraint due to the labor-intensive nature of their use, resulting in a compromise in design decisions.

Turning Straight Lines into Curves:

Several panel patterns are manually cut, and multiple narrow ribbon borders are created. When used around the neckline, these ribbons are gradually curved with an iron to match the curve of the collar. Creating pleats on the upper part of the border and stretching the fabric while ironing the lower part gradually curves the initially straight fabric into the shape of a round neckline. While the finishing process seems smooth, the depth and shallowness of the neckline vary with each product number, adding to the complexity. This technique, known as “setting the habit” of the collar border, is one of LEONARD’s secrets.

Similarly, using borders on cuffs and hems is tricky. Though they appear as a single piece of printed fabric, a closer look reveals sewn-on ribbon borders. This process, done from the back of the fabric, requires precision, as any deviation from the design, even by a millimeter, renders the product non-standard, highlighting the time-consuming nature of the task, contrary to the factory’s pursuit of efficiency.

Hand-Sewing Back Zippers for a Couture Feel:

Another distinctive technique is “star stopping” the zipper on the back of LEONARD’s iconic dresses, which is hand-sewn. This not only enhances strength but also minimizes the visibility of the zipper on the outer fabric, giving off a couture-like atmosphere despite being ready-to-wear.

Yasukawa emphasizes, “These special techniques, like border setting and zipper star stopping, will be preserved and passed on as long as LEONARD continues,” expressing the determination to train as many craftsmen as possible who possess these skills.

Leveraging the Power of the Website:

The biggest challenge they face is the shortage of labor. The acquisition of the French brand “LEONARD” by Sankyo Seiko, 22 years ago, has brought them to where they are now. Despite overcoming the challenges posed by the pandemic, their workforce has reduced to around 50 from the peak of 200 employees. Gaining traction with LEONARD’s success, they aim to increase production, yet securing manpower remains a hurdle, according to Enomoto, Executive Officer of Sankyo Seiko Fashion Services, who oversees Hokuriku Sankyo Seiko.

They plan to organize a workshop event this summer to introduce people to the joy of manufacturing and sewing by operating sewing machines. They also want to facilitate exchanges by inviting teams from Sankyo Seiko Fashion Services, responsible for LEONARD’s sales, among others.

The company revamped its website in January, focusing strongly on LEONARD’s image and their commitment to craftsmanship, resulting in positive changes. Post-renovation, there has been an increase in visitors, and already, four women in their 30s and 40s have joined the company. With plans to gradually increase salaries, Enomoto suggests considering establishing a new factory in Fukui Prefecture to ensure the continuity of skills and to pass the baton to the next generation.

Reporter’s Note:

The city of Katsuyama, once thriving as a textile production center, is now an hour’s train ride from Fukui City. Its picturesque setting, with rivers and greenery, provides a relaxed atmosphere. With a population of just over 20,000, the story of how the website renewal contributed to recruitment is noteworthy. LEONARD Fashion’s print fabrics are crafted by Kyoto’s Segawa Dye Works, using hand dyeing. Considering business continuity from a BCP perspective, they explored the possibility of other companies printing the fabrics but started discussions with an Italian company recommended by LEONARD’s Paris headquarters. There are various hurdles to expanding business while maintaining brand identity.

Despite the challenges of increasing their workforce, they significantly boosted efficiency by introducing state-of-the-art cutting and button attaching machines. The question of what tasks to automate, and what to retain as handcraft, remains a dilemma, but they are committed to continuing to produce high-value garments born from craftsmen’s hands.

(Takada Atsushi)

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